Lisbon fado vs Coimbra fado — what's the difference

When people say "fado", most think of one thing. But Portugal has two distinct fados — the Lisbon one and the Coimbra one. If you're going to Lisbon, it's worth knowing the difference, if only to understand what you won't hear.

Lisbon fado — the song of the city

Lisbon fado is what this site covers, and what you'll hear in the capital's houses. It's the urban song born in the working-class neighbourhoods in the 19th century — Alfama, Mouraria. Characteristics:

• Who sings: men and women. Some of fado's greatest voices are women.
• Theme: saudade, love, jealousy, the street, neighbourhood life.
• Where: in fado houses, closed rooms, at night.
• Dress: the fadista often wears a black shawl, a tribute to Maria Severa.

Coimbra fado — the academic tradition

Coimbra fado was born in the university city of Coimbra and is tied to student life. It's another thing:

• Who sings: traditionally only men, connected to the university.
• Dress: the black student cape and gown.
• Where: often outdoors — on stairways, at night, in serenades.
• Etiquette: you don't applaud; appreciation is shown with a dry cough.

Coimbra fado is more ceremonial, more tied to an academic ritual than to a night in a room.

Which one you'll hear in Lisbon

Simple: in Lisbon you hear Lisbon fado. All the experiences I recommend — Fado no Chiado, Fado in Alfama, Fado with tour and dinner and the others — are Lisbon fado, in its own tradition.

If you want to hear Coimbra fado, you'll have to go to Coimbra. But don't think you're missing something essential: Lisbon fado is the best known, the most recorded, and the one UNESCO recognised in 2011. To understand where it comes from, read the history of fado.

What's the difference between Lisbon fado and Coimbra fado?

Lisbon fado is the urban song of the neighbourhoods, sung by men and women in fado houses. Coimbra fado is an academic tradition, sung only by men in a student cape, often outdoors.

What kind of fado will I hear in Lisbon?

Lisbon fado — the urban song born in Alfama and Mouraria. All of Lisbon's fado houses follow this tradition.

Do women sing fado?

In Lisbon fado, yes — some of the greatest voices in the history of fado, such as Amália Rodrigues, were women. In Coimbra fado, traditionally only men sing.